Q I have a question about rejuvenating paint (latex enamel)! My uncle was given 20 gallons of latex enamel paint, and he stored it in a barn, and I think the paint froze and is now separated. Should I drain off the liquid and what can I put in it when I remix it? Thank you! Ian McDougall

AIan - You may be able to reclaim the paint; open each container and ...

• Do not pour off any of the liquid. This should be kept as part of the paint.
• Look for any signs of rusting or deterioration of the containers, and where you see any contamination of the paint, discard that container of paint.
• Remove any obvious skins, or hard pieces; leave soft lumps in place.
• Now the containers have to be mixed thoroughly. The best bet would be to have the containers shaken at a paint store. You may have trouble getting this done, unless you are a friend of the owner! You may have the best chance of success asking at a store that sells the same brand as you paint. When using a shaker, be sure all paint is removed from the chime (groove where the lid fits), and be sure the lid is on tight. Or use a paint stir-stick and stir each container thoroughly for 5 to 10 minutes.
• If, after the mixing, the paint seems smooth, uniform, free of specs, is not thin and runny, not putrefied, etc., it should be OK to use; but check each container out first by applying to a scrap surface, and look for uniformity of gloss and color. Still, don't use it in a critical place like a living room.

Q Every Fall I like to check and double check the condition of the inside and outside of my house. What do you recommend I do to accomplish this in an organized and productive way?

AI came across this checklist, I recommend following this procedure-

1 Start a maintenance log. Record the date when each job is done so you know when to check for wear and damage. Also record the costs for each job and who did the repairs so you know whom to call if you have problems. If you do the work yourself, note the materials used and where you purchased them.

2 Make upkeep routine. It should become a habit. Spring is a good time to do a comprehensive inventory of your house, particularly if you live in an area where the winter weather is harsh.

3 Create a maintenance and repair fund. How much you spend on maintenance and repairs depends on the age of your home, how it's been treated by previous owners, the climate you live in and how much you want to get out of it when you sell. One rough rule of thumb: Budget 1% to 3% of the home's value for annual repairs and maintenance. So if your home is worth $200,000, set aside $2,000 to $6,000. (The older the home, the more maintenance it will need.)

4 Keep water out. Water is the No. 1 cause of damage to homes. The penetration of moisture--vapor, water or ice--can cause paint failure, mold, foundation problems and masonry cracks. Check regularly for leaks in the basement, particularly after storms or heavy rains. Remove debris from the roof and gutters so water doesn't back up and damage the exterior. Seal roof flashings to prevent leaks. Extend or install downspouts or splash blocks to prevent basement flooding, leaks and soil erosion. Put a dehumidifier in the basement to prevent condensation on the walls, especially in humid weather. Keep the unit clean to prevent mold.

5 Invest in better materials. Using upgraded materials can reduce the amount and frequency of maintenance. For example, replacing water lines on appliances such as your washing machine and dishwasher with stainless-steel hoses instead of rubber ones goes a long way in preventing floods. Water damage from burst pipes and appliances accounts for 20% of all insurance claims.

6 Do preventive fixes. Install chimney caps to keep out rain and critters. Caulk exterior trim, windows and doors to prevent leaks. Trim trees near the house and roof to prevent damage during storms or on windy days. Keep any wood exposed to weather painted and sealed to stop moisture penetration, which can lead to dry rot and termites. A $20 gallon of waterproofing seal can save hundreds in deck repairs in the long run. Clean the kitchen exhaust fan and the clothes dryer vent to prevent fire.

What to do and When

Every Month:

• Clean or change air filters for heating and cooling systems. Clogged filters make your heating and cooling system less efficient, driving up electricity bills.

Every Spring and Fall

• Check doors, windows and trim. Replace broken glass or damaged screens. Check glazed openings for loose putty and caulking at doors and windows and weather stripping for fit and damage.
• Clean out gutters and downspouts to prevent water from backing up and damaging your house.
• Inspect exterior walls, looking for cracks or loose joints in masonry, paint failure and damage or decay to siding and trim.
• Check roof for damaged or loose shingles. Repair damage to metal flashing, gutters and downspouts that can cause leaks in the roof.
• Check underside of roof for water stains or dampness.
• If you have (and use) a fireplace, have the chimney cleaned once a year (more often if you have nightly fires or burn a lot of softwood). A fire burns more efficiently and gives off more heat when the chimney is clean. But more important, burning wood creates a flammable residue called creosote that can cause a devastating blaze if too much builds up inside the chimney.
• Test ground-fault circuit breakers, required for any area where there is water, such as kitchens and bathrooms.
• Vacuum air ducts to prevent dirt and mold buildup, which can trigger allergies.
• Check condition of lamp cords, extension cords and plugs; replace at first sign of wear or damage.
• Clean dirt and dust from around furnace.
• Check driveways and sidewalks for cracks and yard for settlement and soil erosion. Fill in any low spots near the foundation with soil to prevent basement leaks and flooding.
• Examine your trees and shrubs, and prune back those that are too close to the house or overhanging the roof to prevent damage to roof and siding. Remove any dead trees and broken limbs.
• Check basement or crawl space for dampness and/or leakage following storms or heavy rains.
• Test smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors.

Before Winter

• Check weather stripping on doors and windows.
• Remove window air conditioners.
• Drain outside water lines and hoses so water doesn't freeze.

Every Year

• Inspect foundation and basement for signs of termite infestation. Termites are attracted to moist or decayed wood. Look for termite tubes and mud tunnels. Remove dense vegetation growing close to the foundation or siding. Vegetation traps moisture, which creates a better habitat for termites.
• Check grading of yard to make sure water will drain away from foundation.
• Lubricate window hardware.
• Inspect tile in bathrooms and kitchens. Loose tiles and grout need to be re-cemented and resealed to prevent water from seeping into the walls.
• Evaluate your roof for signs of wear. Sweep debris off flat and low-slope roofs.
• Check antenna guy wires and supports on roof.
• Check floors for wear and damage, particularly where one material meets another. Determine whether flooring should be replaced or refinished.
• Check electrical cords and overhead wiring for damage and missing insulation--replace and repair as needed. Flickering lights and humming noises indicate problems.
• Clean humidifiers and dehumidifiers to prevent mold growth.
• Check water heater for signs of leaks or rust. Hot-water tanks should be replaced every 10 years. Drain tank to prevent sediment from building up.
• Check safety and reversing mechanism on electric garage-door openers; adjust if needed.
• Change batteries in smoke detector. Set up a regular date to do this, such as the first day of spring. Also check fire extinguishers to ensure they're still fully charged.

Every Five Years

• Get referrals from friends, check the Yellow Pages or call your state insurance department. Service, such as a timely response, is just as important as price. Ask for quotes from at least three companies and check their complaint records with the National Association of Insurance Commissioners (naic.org).
• Know your history.

  When you ask for a rate quote, an insurer looks at your house's claims history. See what the insurer sees by ordering your CLUE report (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange). It's $13 at choicetrust.com. You can challenge mistakes and submit updates.

• File fewer claims.

  With insurers raising rates and dropping policies if homeowners file frequent claims, you may be better off footing smaller repair bills.

• Cover more yourself.

  Raising your deductible from $500 to $1,000 will cut your premiums by as much as 25%.

• Maintain good credit.

  Insurers are increasingly using credit information to price homeowners policies. You can get lower rates if you have good bill-paying and debt habits.

• Bundle policies.

  You can save 10% to 15% by buying your auto, homeowners and liability policies from the same insurer.

• Improve your home security.

  You can get discounts of 5% or more for smoke detectors, a burglar alarm, fire extinguishers and deadbolt locks. The break can be as much as 20% if you install a sprinkler system and a fire and burglar alarm that rings at a police, fire or other monitoring station.

• Seek discounts.

  Many insurers give discounts to longtime customers--typically 5% after three to five years and 10% after six years. Retirees, who are at home more than working folks and are less likely to be burglarized, may get discounts of up to 10%.

• Review your policy once a year.

  Make sure your policy covers any major purchases or additions to your home. Remember that you'll need a rider or extra insurance for items such as expensive jewelry, computers and artwork, which aren't typically covered by standard homeowners insurance.

• Make a list of your valuables.

  You can do it with a notebook, camera or video recorder. Record as much detail as possible, including date of purchase, and keep receipts so you know what you paid. Every time you buy a big-ticket item, add it to your home inventory, which should be kept outside your home--in a safe-deposit box, for example.

Q Do you guys just do the whole job? We want to do some of the work ourselves. Are there any groundrules or limitations?

AWe work well with others. It is not uncommon these day to find the dollar stretched so this is understandable. Here are a few suggestions...

A Few First Steps for Do-It-Yourselfers:

Take a moment to consider a few important preliminary steps. Home improvements can be like a Chinese puzzle in complexity, with interlocking parts that must proceed in exactly the right direction and order or it simply doesn't work. Planning is key. It's critically important to be clear about your goals and to develop a plan for achieving them.

Whether you're adding a room, building a deck, or installing new cabinets, spending a little extra time planning before you actually launch your project can make the process much smoother- and your results far more successful.

Here are seven steps that are key to proper planning:

1. List your priorities.
   Break down the various elements of your plans and rate the importance of each. Most people want fast, inexpensive, high quality results. As a rule, you can pick two of these. If you want it fast and inexpensive, chances are pretty good that it won't be high quality. If you want it fast and high quality, chances are it won't be inexpensive.
2. Estimate cost.
   Nothing is worse than halting progress halfway through a project for lack of funds. To accurately anticipate costs, you'll have to do some homework. Begin by visiting a home center to find out what the materials and fixtures will cost. In addition, it's a good idea to get three bids for the work from contractors or other professionals, even if you plan to do some or all of your own work. Getting bids can give you a feel for what the work will involve and help you determine the potential savings of doing it yourself. In some cases, looking at the numbers may convince you it's wiser to hire a professional. Kapski can help here!
3. Plan for help you'll need.
   Even when you do it yourself, you don't have to do it BY yourself. Some jobs take two or more people to do safely and properly. Before you encounter those jobs, schedule help.

Keep in mind that most home improvements involve a range of different tasks, each requiring knowledge and skills, from design and construction to plumbing, wiring, and finish work. Your overall project might go far more smoothly if you hire a pro for certain parts. For example, when remodeling your kitchen, you might want to install the flooring and cabinets yourself but bring in a plumber for installing new piping.

If you do call a professional, make sure he or she is qualified and reliable. The best way to find good help is through personal recommendations. Otherwise, you can find qualified, pre-screened professionals on the Web such as Kapski Painting.

4. Gather tools and resources.
   Before you start, make sure you have on site the tools, materials, and other resources you'll need to complete the work. If your current toolkit doesn't include certain specialty tools, explore renting them. Key materials, fixtures, and appliances--such as tile, windows, cabinets, and plumbing fixtures--should be scheduled for delivery. Far too many people plunge into demolishing their old kitchen only to find that their new cabinets have been back ordered for delivery in twelve weeks.
5. Explore the need for a permit.
   Visit the city or county building department to find out whether permits are needed and to discover any zoning or building requirements. Be sure the changes you plan to make are possible and legal before getting too far into planning. Chances are good that any room addition will be governed by setback and zoning limitations. If you intend to do your own work, be sure your town allows this. Some cities, for example, require electrical and/or plumbing work to be completed by a licensed professional.
6. In most areas, permits are required for work that affects the structure of a house or that involves changing electrical wiring or plumbing. You probably need a permit if you intend to alter the roofline, move a bearing wall, or reposition plumbing fixtures. You may not need one for installing new floor coverings, replacing doors and windows, or making minor repairs. If a permit is required, don't proceed without it.
7. Establish the timeline. Carve out a block of time that is long enough to get the work done, and then set mileposts for completing phases of the work. Be aware that doing your own work will probably take you longer than you expect-in fact, it's likely to take you twice as long. Within your timeline, account for the delivery time of anything that must be special ordered.
8. Set up systems. It's a good idea to rent a dumpster and have it delivered before any major demolition begins; coordinate delivery with start-of-work so you don't pay excessive rental fees. If contractors or other professionals will be involved in the project, set up a meeting to discuss logistics and the work that needs to be accomplished. This is also a good time to establish daily schedules and ground rules such as work hours, use of bathrooms, and so on. Be sure to ask for cell phone numbers for all of the key players.

Q Any advice on Real Estate Appraisals?

AThere are new rules that you need to watch out for

Real Estate Appraisals

New rules make it impossible to correct an appraisal before it is published and it ruins the deal. The pendulum has swung far too far.

I recently had heard of an appraisal for a custom home where the lot was valued at less than 50% of 12 very recent sales in the same subdivision. There were no short sales, no foreclosures, nothing bad - just an appraiser not doing his job and being overly conservative. (The sale price was in the mid-$60s for two acres and the appraisal was in the $30s.) He had already sold the lot and his customer had lot financing from a local bank based on a good local appraisal. He had an 80% lot loan of about $50,000.

It messed up his customer's construction loan. He was told for the first time at the closing table that he needed another $20,000-plus down. The bank used somebody from 30 or 40 miles away hired by one of the appraisal services. He blew it totally. His customer switched from that national bank to a local organization, which hired a local appraiser, and he got full value for the lot. He is framing now. Trusses should go up any day on a 3,000-plus-square-foot house. But his customer's construction was delayed for a month while he protested the appraisal and finally threw up his hands and went with a local bank.

Needless to say, the local bank was thrilled with the loan and happy that the national bank's appraiser had blown it. The local bank knew the history of the deal. Yet it cost his sophisticated customer several thousand dollars to make the switch.

Something is wrong when rules make it that hard to get a loan. Local banks were bidding for it, but the national bank had a great program that was theoretically cheaper. His customer goofed by initially ignoring his advice to go with a local bank instead of the nominally cheaper big bank. He made a rational decision; yet the system really messed him up.

Staying away from the big banks is part of the answer. Unlike many of the big banks, the local banks in my area did not have big real estate losses, with an exception or two.

Going local is the way to go!

Q Last month's Q&A about wallpapering costs was great! What can you tell us about interior paint pricing?

A Here are some guidelines for interior paint pricing:

Interior Paint Pricing

A can of fresh paint can take a room from looking dreary and dated to a sense of sparkling newness for a relatively low price compared to other remodeling projects.

Typical costs:

1. a.. Interior paint itself costs anywhere from $12-$50 or more a gallon, depending on the quality. Painting a 12x12-foot room, both walls and ceiling, can require $25-$100 worth of paint, plus $10-$50 for primer, brushes, rollers, drop clothes and other supplies. For a 1,500-square-foot home, supplies run $200-$300 for average paint, and $400-$600 for higher quality.
2. b.. Expect to pay $200-$400 to have a 12x12-foot room painted by a licensed contractor with brand-name paints; a 15x20-foot room or larger runs $300-$700 or more; and a 1,200-1,500 square foot home is $1,100-$2,000 or more. Having the ceiling painted bumps the cost to the high end of the scale.

What should be included:

1. a.. Whether doing it yourself or hiring someone, buy the best quality paint you can afford; it lasts longer and in some situations requires only one coat of paint instead of two. Painting a room usually involves prep work, primer and latex or alkyd paints with a range of finishes.
2. b.. A painting contractor's estimate usually includes all prep work (including taping and moving small items, primer and two or more coats of paint.

Equipment

1. a.. Cheap paint roller covers leave fuzz on the wall while inexpensive brushes leave streaky marks; pay a few extra cents or dollars to get better results.
2. b.. It takes more coats of paint and costs more to cover a dark color with a light one, or vice versa.
3. c.. Removing heavy furniture is often not included in painters' estimates; if you can't do it yourself or hire someone, ask if there will be an extra charge.
4. d.. Having to paint crown molding, baseboards, wainscoting or other detailed can add to a contractor's estimated price, as can walls taller than the average of 8 feet. The exact extra expense will varies depending on the amount of extra labor required.

Discounts:

1. a.. If a painter is setting up to do a single room in a home, additional rooms may cost less than the first--it's possible to save money overall by painting everything at once.
2. b.. Painters' quotes can be lower in winter, early spring or late fall--the off-season--than in peak summer months when there's lot of work available. Ask if there's a discount if the project is done on a fill-in basis, in-between other projects.

Q Can you give me a price over the phone on wallpapering my Kitchen?

A This is a guide that will help walk you through the process:

Price Guide For Wallcovering Installations

How much does wallpaper cost?

You can shop for wallpaper at Home Depot or Lowe's and get material at $7 or $8 a single roll. You can go to a wallpaper store and see many "mass market" materials in the $15 to $75 per single roll range. And then there are designer type materials where prices climb over $100 per single roll.

How expensive is the labor to have wallcovering done?

A very good question. But it's like asking, "How expensive is a house?"--we all know it depends on a lot of things. The following page is designed to give you some idea about what goes into pricing a job. Of course, every job is different and requires that: #1. I see the jobsite, #2. I see the type of material to be installed and, #3. I measure for material, before any price is given. The prices on this page represent recent actual prices of local jobs in 2008.

None of the prices below include removal of old wallpaper, nor do they include the price of wallcovering material. In situations where old paper must be removed I need to examine to see if it was professionally installed. Previous installations by professionals are usually easier to remove since pros generally use good primers.

Bathrooms and Powder Rooms generally need 4 to 8 single rolls. Most installations require that a wall-protecting primer be applied before the wallcovering is installed. The following is a ballpark figure for a bathroom in the 4 to 8 single roll range. The price includes:

1. At-home estimate/measurement
2. Removal of towel racks, shower rods, and loosening other fixtures if possible
3. Priming bath or powder with wall-protecting primer
4. Hanging the wallcovering
5. Primer and adhesive material costs

The typical price range for a 4 single roll bath to an 8 single roll bath of this type would be from $250 to $450. Since bathroom jobs are the smallest, you can save money if you combine a bath job with a second bath or another room.

Kitchens in older homes usually need from 8 to 12 single rolls. Kitchens can vary in price because they may have a soffitt (the sheetrock from cabinet to ceiling) which may have to be wrapped with wallcovering. Some kitchens require that the refrigerator be moved.

8 single roll to 12 single roll kitchens are common in houses built before the 1970's and those would cost in the range of $475 to $795 including:

1. At-home estimate/measurement
2. Moving refrigerator
3. Wall Priming
4. Wallcovering Installation
5. Primer and adhesive materials

Larger kitchens and the newer style "kitchen/great room" or "kitchen/mud room" must be price estimated on a job by job basis.

Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, and Living Rooms are more straightforward since they normally don't have all the built-in fixtures to cut around compared to kitchens and baths.

A room of this type would need in the range of 14 to 16 single rolls and would likely cost in the range of $725 to $925. This price would include:

1. At-home estimate/measurement
2. Move bed and dressers
3. Wall Priming
4. Wallcovering Installation
5. Primer and adhesive materials

Hallways come in many varieties. Two story hallways require scaffolding. Extra labor is involved for set up/knock down of the scaffolding as well as the extra labor of installing wallcoverings in a high place. You could try to guess how much it would cost or you could call for a free estimate.

Certain fixtures in houses increase labor charges. Items like old-fashioned curved archways, large crown moldings, or fixtures that can't be loosened or removed require more time to cut around. Designer papers or British pulp papers may require that walls first must be lined and that can increase the cost of the job substantially since the room must be wallpapered twice. Other designer papers require hand trimming which also substantially increases the cost of the job. Walls that are very rough and cracked will likely need skim coating and other remedial work which also results in an extra charge

Q Are there Eco-Friendly paint colors that aren't boring?

A Plenty of them. Eco-Friendly coatings don't have to be boring.

There aren't many choices for green coatings and many manufacturers have the same old boring colors! They don't seem have made the leap regarding the new technologies. So what are your options?

Check out the Sierra Greenhome site at www.sierragreenhome.com. Kapski Painting is a charter member of this great organization and we want to help spread the word.

We have learned a lot about some of the new colors and certifying systems so that you can be sure that the paint you are putting in your home is safe, long lasting and beautiful.

Greenguard Environmental Institute is one of the best third party certifiers around (www.greenguard.org)

Greenseal was founded in 1989. www.greenseal.org. It is a science based environmental organization that uses the new GS-11 standard which certifies that the paint tested is free from a long list of bad stuff. Check these certifiers out if you care about off-gassing, indoor air quality and related issues.

But the fun part, for me at least, is the color selections. Matt, one of our lead painters loves the AFM Safecoat Paint color chart. I agree with him...these colors are the best! They are high quality and VOC free...but the colors are great!

Here are a few examples: http://www.afmsafecoat.com/ayurveda/kapha.html

These paints are available in Philadelphia...check out the link for directions. http://www.greendepot.com/greendepot/ So...those are a few options.

Q What's the best way to refinish a wood deck?

A A new wood deck provides a warm, handsome connection with the outdoors, adding to a home's beauty and setting the stage for a world of outdoor activities. But decks take a lot of abuse, both from use and through continued exposure to weather. After a few years, they become weathered and unfriendly without proper care.

Fortunately, most deck surface problems are cosmetic, not structural, because decking is built of durable woods: usually redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine. Redwood and cedar heartwoods have a natural resistance to termites and decay; pine is pressure-treated with a pesticide to give it insect and decay-blocking power.

Even so, ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun breaks down surface fibers and lignin, causing graying and surface erosion. Moisture encourages surface mildew and causes stains, particularly in damp or humid climates. And natural extractives in redwood and cedar can discolor the surface.

The road to restoring a deck's great looks is usually simple, regardless of the type of wood used for its construction. First you clean it, then you diagnose and treat any discoloration. And last, you protect the result with a durable finish.

Cleaning

Debris that clogs the spaces between deck boards traps moisture, encouraging mildew and rot. Blast out the debris, using a powerful nozzle on a garden hose, and then push out remaining debris with a putty knife or an old handsaw. Thoroughly scrub the surface with a sudsy mixture of water and laundry detergent, using a stiff fiber brush on a long handle. Work in small areas and rinse periodically. This may be all it takes to return much of the wood's natural tone.

For a large deck, you can rent a power washer that delivers 1,200 psi of pressure or less to blast and rinse the decking. It should have a nozzle that fans an arc of about 25 to 40 degrees. Wearing safety goggles, hold the nozzle about 6 inches above the deck's surface and spray slowly in line with the wood grain, overlapping your path. Be careful: The powerful spray can erode soft wood grain. After washing, allow the deck to dry for several clear days before applying a finish.

Eliminating Discoloration

Several products are available for dealing with discoloration and stains. Commercially available powder or liquid concentrates have a base of non-chlorine bleach or oxalic acid; a detergent may be part of the formula. Bleach-based products eliminate mildew, acid-based materials handle graying and stains. Some products may darken woods such as redwood and cedar, so be sure to test any material in an inconspicuous place.

Always wear rubber gloves, goggles, and old clothes when working with these chemicals and follow the directions explicitly. Never mix detergent containing ammonia with household bleach; the resulting fumes can be highly toxic.

Test for mildew by applying a drop of undiluted liquid household bleach to a small, black spot. If the spot disappears after a minute or two, clean the deck with a mild cleanser (no ammonia) and rinse with a solution of 1 part household liquid bleach to 4 parts water, and then rinse. For stubborn mildew, mix 1 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) and 1 cup household liquid bleach in a gallon of water and scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Rinse after about 15 minutes.

Non-mildew stains are often caused by natural wood extractives or corroding hardware and nails. Familiar, general graying of the decking is usually the result of surface wood cells that have been broken down by UV radiation and wear. Bleach used to kill mildew can also leave a surface drab and washed-out.

For these problems, an acid-based deck restoration product is best. You can buy a pre-mixed oxalic acid deck cleaner or purchase oxalic acid crystals from a hardware store or home-improvement center and mix a solution of 4 ounces crystals to 1 quart water in a non-metallic container. Wearing rubber gloves, eye protection, and old clothes, apply with a rag one board at a time and scrub with a soft brush. Allow to dry, and then rinse with clear water.

You can strip and clean a deck that has an existing stain finish using a commercial "deck scrub" that you brush in and rinse off. Follow the label directions.

Finish Treatments

Though some people paint decks with deck paint, most choose to take advantage of the natural beauty of expensive decking woods by applying a clear or lightly stained finish. If you do choose to paint, use a stain-blocking oil or alkyd primer first.

In general, the best finishes are those that soak into the wood, not those that provide a surface film. A heavily pigmented, solid stain isn't really recommended for decking because it shows wear patterns and may tend to peel. You want something that really soaks in.

There are three important characteristics to look for in a finish:

• First, the finish should be water repellent or waterproof, not just water resistant.
• Second, it should offer UV (ultraviolet) protection.
• Third, if mildew is a potential problem, the finish should contain a mildewcide, which a wood preservative does. Regular preservatives should be reapplied once a year; newer and better "toner" products offer more UV protection and may last up to four years.

Whatever product you choose, read the label to be sure it's right for your deck. Buy quality materials and follow the manufacturer's directions for application.

Q I have mold and mildew and most of all moss on my roof, aside from looking really bad can it shorten the lifespan of my shingles?

A Yes it will. Moss and lichens are more than cosmetic issues on many kinds of roofing materials - asphalt shingles, roll roofing, wood shingle roofs, wood shake roofs. By holding moisture against the roof surface lichens and moss speed the wear of the asphalt shingle surface in freezing climates by increasing frost damage to the mineral granule coating on the shingles.

Because moss or lichen growing on a roof surface will hold moisture on the roof longer than other areas, these growths can reduce the life of the roof covering.

Particularly where the roofing materials are asphalt shingles or wood shingles, holding water on the roof surface by any means (leaves, debris, moss, or lichens) speeds up wear on these shingles. In freezing climates there may be faster frost damage, cracking, and wear of the shingles under the moss or lichens. Even in non-freezing climates, the roots of moss or lichens eventually penetrate and separate the roof shingle materials damaging them.

Some black stains on asphalt roof shingles are caused by black algae. Black algae stains may be mistaken for extractive bleeding: a product defect.

Green algae on roofs, the presence of these black fungal or algal stains on the roof is an indicator that this roof area is in a shaded spot where you will want to be alert for development of moss or other roof problems, but the level of damage from the black fungus or algae is probably low, even less than that caused by lichen certainly less than that caused by moss. Avoid any aggressive cleaning methods that might damage the roof surface.

It is possible to remove moss from a roof surface by gentle cleaning using a soft brush or a power washer. But why bother? Power washing, brushing or sweeping an asphalt shingle roof (or a wood shingle roof in old, worn, fragile condition) is itself a process that can damage the roof by breaking shingles or by loosening the protective mineral granules from the shingle surface. I recommend have your professional (or Kapski) evaluate the existing conditions.

Chemicals that "kill" the moss or lichens risk also damaging the shingles or contaminating the environment, and have the further disadvantage that they still leave the moss or lichens in place.

This is what I recommend

Install, copper strips or wire along the ridge of an existing roof, this will slowly kill off moss or lichens as rainwater washes over the metal and down the roof surface. This method is suitable for both prevention of future or further moss or lichens growth on the roof and for gently treating an otherwise fragile old roof.

If you are replacing an existing roof which has this problem have your roofer, or Kapski install copper wire on the ridge or in other suitable places.

Q We want to remodel our newly purchased home. What are our options for switching from papered to painted walls?

A There are several options as follows:

• Drywall over it with 1/4 inch drywall.
• Score the paper and then using chemicals to dissolve the glue.
• Leave it in place and simply paint over it.

For simplicity you may choose to leave it up and paint over it. However, before doing so, it needs quite a bit of prep work. Although the prep work is a bit extensive I feel that this is still far more efficient then installing new drywall or removing and prepping the wall under the removed wall paper for new paint.

The first thing is we take a small 1.5 to 2 inch wide putty knife and lift up and remove any loose paper on the wall along the seams, ceiling and trim. We make sure that we keep peeling it until we reach a point where it won't keep peeling. In some spots we end up removing a 2 x 2 foot square of material. After we are confident that we got all of the loose paper we go back and lightly sand those areas with 120 grit sand paper.

The next and most important step is to then dust and prime those areas with a good primer. We use an alkyd primer (Problock) from Sherwin Williams. After the primer is cured (24 hrs) we use all purpose joint compound to smooth out the areas along the seams, ceiling and trim where we have removed the wall paper. This will take 2 skim coats due the shrinkage associated with the compound used. After a slight sanding we wash down the walls and then prime the room with the same primer used over the torn areas. This will prevent the paper from lifting up and any bleed through from the wall paper design itself. After these steps we can go ahead and paint your walls and no one will ever know you had wall paper. For the fussy homeowner the possibility of seeing the seams may rule out this option although skimming over them may be an option.

Removing the paper is more difficult and time consuming, especially if the walls weren't sized prior to the installation of the existing wallcovering. If the walls were sized the professional remover will score the paper with a paper tiger and then use a special solution either prepackaged or, like us, one that he has found that works better. The paper and adhesive need to be removed to allow the primer to properly bond. Occasional gouges in the wall will have resulted from the removal which we will patch and sand. Then apply the bonding primer, the first and finish coats of paint and clean up the area. This may be the best bet providing the paper comes off reasonably quickly.

Installation of 1/4 inch drywall over the area in question is done when the ceilings and walls are in poor condition as well as when the existing paper will not come off within a reasonable amount of time. This should be done by a capable installer that can join and tape as well as apply three coats of drywall compound and produce a smooth and tight finish. This is a great way to ensure many years of decorating! This method would be the most costly remedy.

Contact us for more information or a no obligation, free estimate.

Q I have mold issues but don't want to use bleach. Are there green alternatives?

A Last month you teased us about a new mold and mildew remover that is safe, well, how about it? So,at the International Builder Convention in January the Concrobium company had a booth that featured a product called Mold Control.

I hung around posing as a consumer (not a contractor) and asked a lot of naïve questions and got some interesting answers such as:

• Bleach is a dangerous product, how can this stuff work if it is so safe and non toxic?
• 'This stuff is so benign that I can lick it off my fingers!'

And then he dipped a finger into the container and licked it, then he put it into his mouth and sucked on his finger! Needless to say I was surprised. So he got my attention. I read the literature and found it has many uses, some of which I show right here. (Insert a link with the sheets emailed).

I would prefer not to use bleach for obvious reasons. I have used Concrobium and it works. Maybe you should give it a try, give Ma Nature a break, give a break to your health and you family's health, too!

Concrobium Mold Control® is an EPA-registered solution that offers professionals the latest in antimicrobial technology.

Pros use Concrobium Mold Control for:

• Mold remediation in homes, businesses and government institutions
• Pre-treatment of building materials for mold protection
• Mold maintenance and prevention in vulnerable facilities such as schools and hotels

The advantages to builders, mold remediators and facilities managers are clear:

• A single solution to eliminate and prevent mold
• A proven antimicrobial that contains no bleach, ammonia, acids or VOCs
• An easy-to-use solution that requires zero isolation time and no protective equipment
• A water-based solution that can be fogged to treat large, inaccessible areas

Q What's new in the paint industry...and why should I care?

A Well, having just returned from the 2009 International Builders Conference, a 5 day exhibition of the latest and newest in residential and commercial building products, I can report the following:

Sto-guard: A coating that takes the place of Tyvek house wrap. This is a liquid coating the provides a high-performance wind and water barrier that is applied to the exterior of the house or building as it is being constructed, repaired or remodeled. Zero mold growth, substantial energy savings, is permeable and non-flammable. It is also zero VOC! We can apply this coating for less then conventional wrap and it out performs sheet wrap by a mile!

How about a coating applied to the ceiling of your unfinished attic, office building of commercial space that will cut cooling costs significantly! A low cost low VOC paint-like product that will save money on cooling costs and is inexpensive to buy and apply!

Or, a low cost paint that when applied to the roof of your building can substantially lower heating and cooling costs.

Q Why should I wait until Spring or Summer to paint the interior of my residence or Office?

A You will get the best prices and the best painters that the contractor has if you do the work in the Winter. If you specify Low or No-Voc paint then you will usually not have to deal with odor and an allergenic response to the paint itself.

The painting contractor you choose will be working exteriors during the other seasons and will be focused on good weather to accommodate this work. You will have greater schedule flexibility as well, perhaps not having to wait for rainy weather to be fit in the contractors schedule.

But the biggest plus is the painting contractors are slow in the winter, you will certainly get better prices and better attention.

Q Do you paint outside in the winter?

A The weather is too cold most days. If there is a spell of warm weather (above 40 degrees during the daytime) and a new door, window or some replaced trim is in need of a primer to keep the wood preserved, this work can and should be done.

Caulking, replacing broken or missing glazing compound in the window sashes to keep water away from the wood and other wood protection jobs can and should be done. Usually the time from the end of November until the first week of March is reserved for interior work.

It is a good idea for those who wish to have exterior painting done in the Spring or Summer to contact their Painting Professional during the off season. This allows the consumer sufficient lead time to compile the proposals, do homework on colors and manufacturers products and, since it is off-season, your Painting Professional will want to sharpen his (or her) pencil and be more competitive than if he had 10 jobs already in line.